© Allan and Amanda 2008
We checked out of the Novotel, for the last time, early the next morning and were picked up by our driver for the short drive to central Cusco railway station. Here we boarded the Orient Express train, the Andean Explorer, bound for Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
The train was really rather grand, fitted out like an Edwardian drawing room, all dark wood panels and polished brass. All the seats were actually individual wing back chairs arranged around tables dressed with fine lace covers and topped with elegant brass table lamps. The tables and chairs were laid out to suit individual group sizes. That having been said, we were asked if we could swap seats with an American couple that wanted to be near their friends. We were happy to oblige particularly when we found ourselves on a much larger table with plenty of room and a bit nearer the bar and observation carriage…
We began the 10-hour journey right on time at 8am under a clear, bright, sunny sky. Leaving Cusco behind, we travelled quite slowly at first as the train tracks run right through the outlying districts of town, right between the houses and down the centre of the street on occasions. To see the city this way was a real eye opener…
The train continued on, soon leaving Cusco behind, and we eventually emerged in open countryside. The train followed a river valley for several hours and the scenery all around was simply stunning. The Andes in all their snow-capped glory punctuated the clear blue sky.
Primitive looking farms lined the valley. Agriculture is the mainstay of life here; there is little else. Flocks of sheep and herds of cows grazed the scrubby ground. Much of the livestock was tethered and watched over by shepherds and herdsmen. Every now and then the animals would be repositioned to fresh grazing whilst the brightly dressed farmers looked on. Most of the workers we saw dressed in traditional clothes, including the famous tall felt hats, and many of the women struggled with large blanket wrapped bundles on their backs. Life looked tough for humans and animals alike.
The service on our train was friendly, efficient and attentive. We had breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea served with a smile; nothing was too much trouble. We were given numerous cups of coca tea and coffee as we watched the stunning landscape drift by.
Our first class carriage was right next to the buffet and the rather splendid observation car. The open end of the observation car afforded fantastic views and a different perspective to the journey as the railway lines disappeared behind us.
We climbed ever higher and we felt the air getting thinner and the sun getting hotter piercing through the rarefied atmosphere.
We made a brief stop en-route at a place called La Raya which is the highest point of our journey at a breathtaking (literally) 4300 metres (14200 feet). We stopped for just 10 minutes or so, enough time to stretch our legs and take in the mountain scenery. There was a collection of stalls selling a selection of fine Andean craft goods; Alpaca clothes and rugs mainly, all beautifully made and very cheap, but, we resisted! Must be the altitude…
Back on the train we continued south and on to the Altiplano. This dry, flat barren land forming a corridor between mountain ranges is both bleak and beautiful. Here llamas and alpacas graze, albeit under the ever-watchful eye of an attendant shepherd. Here in this windswept landscape very little thrives but the llamas and alpacas manage better than most.
The 10-hour journey was nearing the end but, before we got a glimpse of the famous Lake Titicaca, we went through the desperate looking town of Juliaca. Now there is a place you would not want to get stuck in… incredibly poor and run down. An endless sea of mud brick houses; some little bigger than a garden shed and most without windows and doors- they simply cannot afford such luxuries. All along the railway track there was row upon row of market stalls selling anything and everything. Nothing went to waste, nothing was ever discarded… it could always be mended and used again, no matter what it was.
There were 50, 60 maybe a 100 stalls selling old car components; Axles, wheels, transmissions, gearboxes, engines and everything necessary to keep their old cars running and on the road. I use the word ‘road’ loosely as the roads were in most part just dusty, pot-holed tracks.
We soon left Juliaca and began descending towards Puno and the great lake. A buzz of excitement filled the train as the glistening water first came in to view. Sadly it was getting quite dark as we drew close but the first sight of Lake Titicaca was tantalising.
We pulled in to Puno, which was another poor run-down place and got off the train and in to the cool evening air. We were taken by our driver, on the short trip to our hotel, through the busy streets of Puno and it did nothing to alter our opinion of this poor shabby town, which other than being right on the side of Lake Titicaca had little else going for it.
We stayed at the Hotel Libertador which was very white and very grand; by far the best hotel in town. It was set on its own island reached by road along a narrow causeway. The hotel was quiet and relaxed and, after the obligatory cup of coca tea, we settled in to our room.
As with most of our hotel rooms on this trip, this too was in the 5 star luxury bracket. Very well appointed and when we drew back the curtains, wow! - There it was, Lake Titicaca shining like a mirror reflecting the lights of the town across the bay, fantastic!
We were feeling the effects of the altitude; Puno is at 12400 feet above sea level so we decided on a light meal in the hotel restaurant and a chance to catch our breath. After breakfast the next morning we were collected by our guide, stopped briefly at a nearby hotel to pick up a couple of Americans - Howard and Ruth from Michigan - and then made our way to the dock for a day trip out on the lake.
There was a vast fleet of boats waiting at the dock for that day’s trippers - it was a very popular excursion. We climbed on board our boat with about 20 or so other people and made the short trip out in to the lake to the Uros islands - the famous floating reed islands.
We pulled up along side a large reed island but were told by our guide not to get off with the rest… we were to go to another island, close by away from the crowds, just for us… how cool was that?
The islands were fascinating, the people very friendly and obviously keen to preserve their unique way of life. We were given a talk and presentation by two native Uros Indians telling us about their way of life, how they build their island homes and how they survive. Of course we had to buy some souvenirs, this time a finely embroidered rug depicting traditional Uros Indian images.
We woke early the next morning and, as we drew back the curtains, we had the pleasant, if unexpected sight, of a herd of llamas right in front of the hotel!
After a leisurely breakfast we had the morning to ourselves awaiting our 1.30pm pick-up. We took the opportunity to explore the hotel grounds and we were glad we did.
Walking around the hotel’s island, close to the lakeshore, we saw all sorts of wildlife including blue-billed ducks, birds of prey and we eventually caught up with the herd of llamas, previously seen in front of the hotel. They were actually quite tame and allowed us to get very close; they really are wonderful creatures.
We sat on the hotel terrace for a while and waited for our pick-up. These quiet moments gave us time to reflect on our stay at Lake Titicaca… it had been very special.
Soon we were on the way to Juliaca to catch the plane to Lima. The journey only took about 45 minutes and gave us another chance to see Juliaca in all its glory!
We arrived at a very busy airport and found that our flight had been delayed a couple of hours. Frustratingly, there was a direct flight to Lima ahead of us but we had to wait for flight via Arequipa. We were both at the stage of the trip where we just wanted to get back without any unnecessary delay… ces’t la vie…
We eventually arrived in Lima about 9pm and were met by our driver for the short trip back to the Maria Angola hotel for our last night in Peru.
Strange how first impressions can be misleading; when we arrived in Lima just over two weeks before it appeared poor and squalid. After seeing other areas of the country, which really are poor, Lima, by contrast now, seemed relatively rich and modern!
The next morning was our last and we spent it wondering around the Miraflores district of Lima, near to our hotel. Out on the streets the city was alive and vibrant. The Miraflores district is rather nice with a comfortable European feel about it. It is very much a business area and also a centre for government and official affairs. There are beautifully kept parks and manicured gardens. Fountains and flowers adorn the wide avenues.
Amanda did a bit more shopping before we stopped for lunch at an elegant pavement restaurant. Peruvian food really is very good and, even in the capital city, quite affordable. three dishes between us and a couple of drinks came to about £13.
The time flew by and soon our 2.30 pick-up had arrived to take us to Lima airport for the KLM flight back to Amsterdam and then on to Bristol and finally back to our home in Devon!